Saddle Tramp
Moderator
I changed out the timing chain tensioners in my 2011 Ford Ranger. it's a 4.0 SOHC V-6. They are considered a long term "wear item" like accessory belts and spark plugs. If they are not changed, the timing chain itself will get slack in it and wear out the guide rails, resulting into a roughly $5,500 engine teardown.
The one for the left bank is located on the block, close to the wheel well. I'm horrible with the universal joint adapters so I had to take off the entire wheel well lining to get at the part. Ford uses three different sized screws to attach that thing to the body!
With the easy one done, it was time for the right bank one.
This is where it gets complicated. First you drain out part of the radiator; then you remove the hose from the airbox to the throttle body. Then you remove the throttle body itself. Then upper coolant host. Then the thermostat top, then the thermostat itself, then some sensors, then some more hoses, then the thermostat housing itself. Once you get all that done, you can grab a wrench and crack that tensioner loose. Being in such a tight space, it's best to unthread it by hand.
Then the fun happens.
Videos and books recommend using a deep well socket to screw the new one in, but the socket won't work because it hits the bottom of the intake manifold. You can screw it in most of the way by hand, but you are not going to be able to crank it down to the necessary 40 PSI. I tried using the wrench that broke it free, but it was in such a tight spot that it kept slipping off. The handle area of the wrench was also so wide, it prevented it from getting in the angle needed to get another turn in. (It was a Craftsman combo wrench in 27 mm if you are curious.)
I went online to the forums to see how other's did it. some were so frustrated by the problem that the took off the entire intake manifold! That includes removing the sparkplug wires, more hoses and sensors, replacing all the gaskets around the cylinders and all sorts of fun! Nope!
That means looking for a ratcheting wrench and hoping it's not as fat as the Craftsman; finding a open end wrench that has a thicker end that would be like a cross between a socket and a wrench allowing to connect to the bolt while avoiding the pinch points of the area; or going to a machine shop and having them cut the back of a socket off and weld a stick to it. -Sigh.
Out of desperation I tried a medium sized adjustable wrench. It fit! I was able to crank it down but, obviously couldn't tell if I torqued it to spec. Then I put all that stuff back together.
I did the tip of "flood clearing" the truck which cranks the engine but doesn't allow the spark to happen. This primes the tensioners, eliminating any slap from the chain until oil comes in to tighten the pistons on the tensioners.
The engine sounds good! Nice and quiet. Solid!
And, in another 70,000 to 100,000 miles, I get to do it again. As I said earlier, Ford considers this a wear item.
Eight hours of work was needed to do this. And I consider myself lucky. How much longer would it have been if I had to take apart the intake manifold as well? I can see why the mechanics I asked to do this were hesitant.
If this is what you have to do to a engine design that's over fourteen years old to maintain it, are the new engines that much harder?
The one for the left bank is located on the block, close to the wheel well. I'm horrible with the universal joint adapters so I had to take off the entire wheel well lining to get at the part. Ford uses three different sized screws to attach that thing to the body!
With the easy one done, it was time for the right bank one.
This is where it gets complicated. First you drain out part of the radiator; then you remove the hose from the airbox to the throttle body. Then you remove the throttle body itself. Then upper coolant host. Then the thermostat top, then the thermostat itself, then some sensors, then some more hoses, then the thermostat housing itself. Once you get all that done, you can grab a wrench and crack that tensioner loose. Being in such a tight space, it's best to unthread it by hand.
Then the fun happens.
Videos and books recommend using a deep well socket to screw the new one in, but the socket won't work because it hits the bottom of the intake manifold. You can screw it in most of the way by hand, but you are not going to be able to crank it down to the necessary 40 PSI. I tried using the wrench that broke it free, but it was in such a tight spot that it kept slipping off. The handle area of the wrench was also so wide, it prevented it from getting in the angle needed to get another turn in. (It was a Craftsman combo wrench in 27 mm if you are curious.)
I went online to the forums to see how other's did it. some were so frustrated by the problem that the took off the entire intake manifold! That includes removing the sparkplug wires, more hoses and sensors, replacing all the gaskets around the cylinders and all sorts of fun! Nope!
That means looking for a ratcheting wrench and hoping it's not as fat as the Craftsman; finding a open end wrench that has a thicker end that would be like a cross between a socket and a wrench allowing to connect to the bolt while avoiding the pinch points of the area; or going to a machine shop and having them cut the back of a socket off and weld a stick to it. -Sigh.
Out of desperation I tried a medium sized adjustable wrench. It fit! I was able to crank it down but, obviously couldn't tell if I torqued it to spec. Then I put all that stuff back together.
I did the tip of "flood clearing" the truck which cranks the engine but doesn't allow the spark to happen. This primes the tensioners, eliminating any slap from the chain until oil comes in to tighten the pistons on the tensioners.
The engine sounds good! Nice and quiet. Solid!
And, in another 70,000 to 100,000 miles, I get to do it again. As I said earlier, Ford considers this a wear item.
Eight hours of work was needed to do this. And I consider myself lucky. How much longer would it have been if I had to take apart the intake manifold as well? I can see why the mechanics I asked to do this were hesitant.
If this is what you have to do to a engine design that's over fourteen years old to maintain it, are the new engines that much harder?
